I find that the stick-on wheel weights which are actually made of lead (Pb) can only be used for muzzle loaders.  In fact, they are so soft that it's in fact almost pure 100% Lead.  Because it's not really an alloy, it casts with great difficulty and does not flow as well as the crimp-on wheelwreights.  You also would want to increase the temperature a lot to effectively cast a nice bullet without wrinkles.  They made great roundballs and I use them exclusively to cast my .715" and .735" roundballs.  These balls consume huge amounts of lead, being 550 and 650 grains respectively.

Becoming a firearms collector is not destined for everybody out there.  If you want to become a firearm hoarder, where the emphasis is on quantity rather than quality or historical significance, then becoming a firearm collector is not for you.  Rather get dedicated sport status and license your "lots-o-guns" that way.

Now don't get me wrong, I am a dedicated sport shooter myself and do not see anything wrong with sport shooters.  In fact I personally think sport shooting will enhance your firearm skill level a lot if you are competitive and shoot a lot.

Your first step to becoming a firearms collector is to decide what type of guns you intend to collect.  You can only collect firearms which falls into a specific "theme"  Let's say for instance you like "Small arms used by the British during ww2", then this can be the perfect theme for you.  There are a lot of  different types of  guns used by the British during that period.  If you want to widen this theme, then think of "Small arms used by the Allied forces during WW2" or  even "Small arms used during WW2" and include the Axis powers as well.  Yes, you can also have multiple themes covering a myriad of countries and periods.

Before you can become a registered collector, you would have to apply for membership at any one of the accredited collectors associations out there.  All of their membership requirements might differ slightly, but will work roughly the same way.  As part of the membership, there will be a committee which will ask you some questions with regards to your chosen theme and field of interest.  This is to see if you have at least some rudimentary knowledge about your chosen theme.

As a new potential member you will most likely only be approved as a category D  collector.  This means that you may add any semi automatic handgun, revolver, manually operated rifle or shotgun to your collection up to maximum numerical limit of (I think) 6 firearms.  This is also normally the starting category for junior members which is not yet 21 years old but have a desire to own and start collection guns.  Keep in mind that there is not a minimum age limit to become a collector.  Approval of members are normally at the sole discretion of the collectors committee.  All collectors are normally expected to grow their collection in time.

Once you have demonstrated your added value to the community of firearm collectors you can move up to category C status.  This will remove the six firearm numerical limit.  If you want to collect "restricted" firearms which include firearms like semi automatic shotguns and rifles, then you need to have category B status.  Moving up in status might require approval from the committee and another verbal meeting with you.  Catagory A status is required for "prohibited" firearms which include stuff like grenade launchers and fully automatic firearms. (expect a lot of safe inspections from the SAPS for cat A status)

Before we go further, it is not a requirement to have a "walk in safe" to become a collector.  You also do not have to start off with a huge collection.  Your collection also does not have to be expensive.  If you have a passion for collecting "vest pocket pistols of the gangster era" then by all means go and collect Baby Browning / Colt vest pockets if you want.  They are not all that expensive.  Yes you can have multiple examples of the same type of gun in your collection.

Each firearm you intend to collect needs it's own S17 license. The collector firearm does not have to be de-activated and can be used any place where it is safe and legal to do so.  This implies that you can legally go and shoot it at a shooting range.  You are also legally allowed to hunt with your collector's firearm and should the need arise, you can also use it in a self defense scenario just like any other firearm.  You may have some more explaining to do as to why you shot the intruder endangering your life with a .55" Boys anti tank rifle, but that's on you.

Your collectors association will need to endorse the firearm you intend to license before you can apply for a S17 application from the SAPS.  This is done in the form of documentation you have to submit for your specific firearm, which will also double as the  motivation as required by the SAPS for the application.  This document is signed by the chairman of your association.  This document will contain information as to how this firearm fits into your collection, history of said firearm, collectable properties etc.

Just like you have to maintain your dedicated sport status, you also need to be a "member in good standing" with your collector's association.  This implies that you would have to attend a certain amount of meetings / functions / shoots / exhibitions from your collectors association every year.  I personally find the functions from my own collectors association to be extremely informative and exciting.  My son and I attended an information session about the MG42 in April 2024 and it was awesome!




I personally find it exciting to attend collector's meetings...

We collectors normally go for quality instead of quantity.  Typical example is this P08 Luger below.



From the image we can deduct that it's in really good condition, not refinished with matching serial numbers all round. (ok ok, we would have to strip it to confirm matching serial numbers)
The documentation part of this application included the fact that it was made in 1938 and the S/42 marking was the code given to the Mauser factory during WW2 so that the allies would not know where this gun was made should it be captured.  It was replaced by the Walther P38 due to the cost of manufacturing.
A lot of research needs to be done before you can apply for the firearm as a collector.

Us collectors normally don't refinish any firearms, but would rather keep it in it's original condition.  An original 303 British Lee Enfield in original condition is worth a lot more (to me) than the same 303 fitted with a modern telescopic sight. If you can find the No.4 Mk.I* (T) variant, now that would indeed be a true collectors piece!

If you have any questions regarding the collector's process, feel free to post in this thread and I will attempt to answer to the best of my ability.

Quote from: Treeman on Today at 05:02 PMDie set up will fix incorrect die set up issues, you not going to fix head spacing with die set up - perhaps reduce its apparent resultant showings, but not much more.

The GS Customs method is all good and well but there appears to be no measurements taken in the process ?
I like measuring things - One can never have enough measuring instruments ( and tools )
When you measure - you KNOW

The easiest way to check head spacing is to take the rifle to a gunsmith and test the chamber with  go /no-go gauges. Quick and easy, but might cost a couple of bucks for the gunsmith's time.

 

I stand corrected then.

Maybe I should test my SWC cast bullets I use for my 38Spl in my 357 Mag and see if I still get decent accuracy.
Using cast lead I should gain an extra +- 100ft/sec compared to CMJ/FMJ.  This implies a velocity of around 1900 ft/sec

Will test and report back.

Very very good video telling you what you need


The evergreen Gavin Gear

Quote from: oafpatroll on Today at 04:25 PM

Quote from: Krazong on Today at 03:48 PMYip, about 1800 ft/sec seems to be the upper velocity limit of lead / PC bullets.
This is the velocity I get from my 357 Magnum rounds when firing out of my Rossi Puma lever action rifle.

I know a couple of guys who run 30 cal plain based PC bullets in AK and 300blk at above 2000 with good results and there are people on cast boolits who claim velocities of up to 2600. I intend testing out my 270 bullets uncheckecked and seeing where I can get them to as I find gas checks an irritation.

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You will find that 2200 fps is abouts the problems start velocity. I have also read that some guys are achieving closer to the 2600 than 2000 fps velocities, but no mention of longer distance accuracy.
Everything points to 2200 fps at the moment and it seems the larger the caliber the more achievable that higher velocity is.
It would seem that the heavy slower calibers get higher velocities, closer to original velocities than say a 223 would get. I have gathered by my own deductions that the bigger bore just seem better suited for PC and higher velocities. 

Die set up will fix incorrect die set up issues, you not going to fix head spacing with die set up - perhaps reduce its apparent resultant showings, but not much more.

Quote from: Ds J on May 05, 2024, 11:00 PMWhich cartridge/s went into history, was stopped from production, and was revived again?

Has that ever happened?

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Cartridges of the World
You really really need to order it from second hand books on the internet, like R300 to R600
Frank C Barnes, there is a year or two of reading on off and a lifetime of referring too in that book. There are many many such cartridges, especially in handgun and cowboy shooting. A few rifle cartridges are also only run once a year or even less often.

Quote from: Krazong on Today at 03:48 PMYip, about 1800 ft/sec seems to be the upper velocity limit of lead / PC bullets.
This is the velocity I get from my 357 Magnum rounds when firing out of my Rossi Puma lever action rifle.

I know a couple of guys who run 30 cal plain based PC bullets in AK and 300blk at above 2000 with good results and there are people on cast boolits who claim velocities of up to 2600. I intend testing out my 270 bullets uncheckecked and seeing where I can get them to as I find gas checks an irritation.