I understand that the primers are 'set' on seating, i.e. they get slightly compressed so the compound is close enough to the firing pin and the anvil to reliably detonate. I'm sure you can get them out and reseat them again but is it worth the risk of a pants soiling if you get it wrong and the saving if you get it right?

Dankie vir al die raad!

Ek dink nie dit is wys om die huidige klomp gelaaide patrone verder te gebruik nie - daar was mos al vier foutiewe skote.

Ek wil almal uitslaan en dan vorm in die geweer.

- kan ek die slagdoppies veilig uitdruk, dan versag, en dan skiet, of

- gebruik ek die huidige slagdoppies om die doppe mee te skiet, dan versag en dan laai?

Is it just where I live, or are large rifle primers unobtainium at the moment?

I agree with all of the above.

If you want to use fire formed doppies for accuracy, then just shoot a normal load. The stretch from SAAMI specs to your chamber is little.

If you want to fire form to a different caliber, e.g. 6BR to 6mm Dasher, then Treemans advice is very good, particularly the annealing!!! I know some cases even require 2 steps to get them into shape.

Quote from: Tripodmvr on May 10, 2024, 05:54 PMDs J. Vuurvorm van doppe klink vir my heel skaflik. Dink ' bietjie oor vuurvorm. Jy skiet fabrieksammunisie en dit groep mooi en word vir jag gebruik. Jy het nou ook daardie doppe gevuurvorm en dit het ook verder hul doel gedien om biltong huis toe te bring. Tensy jy wildvreemde doppe soos ^Dasher of soortgelyk vuurvorm sal ek aanbeveel dat jy jag of skyfskiet en daan die doppe vorm. My gelaaide 243 ammunisie het baie goed in die 243AI kamer geskiet en die doppe het reg gevorm.

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Stem saam vir klein modifications, standard tot AI of Improved, skeit hom reg. Maar vir waare "fireform", - soos ek bo gese'

Ds J. Vuurvorm van doppe klink vir my heel skaflik. Dink ' bietjie oor vuurvorm. Jy skiet fabrieksammunisie en dit groep mooi en word vir jag gebruik. Jy het nou ook daardie doppe gevuurvorm en dit het ook verder hul doel gedien om biltong huis toe te bring. Tensy jy wildvreemde doppe soos ^Dasher of soortgelyk vuurvorm sal ek aanbeveel dat jy jag of skyfskiet en daan die doppe vorm. My gelaaide 243 ammunisie het baie goed in die 243AI kamer geskiet en die doppe het reg gevorm.

Got to fire one of these once as a young man and remember thinking that my CZ75 had a trigger so much better that I pittied the krauts who had to wield it. Fascinating thing though and incredibly far ahead of its time. The chamber fluting to aid extraction was one of its secret H&K sauces too.

Quote from: troglodyte on May 09, 2024, 06:47 PMMy experience is that I require slightly less propellant to achieve book velocities for cast when powder coating. Have to assume the stuff is slidier than raw lead.
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Are you certain about this, the powder coating reduces friction substantially, the reduced friction = less pressure, the less pressure = reduced velocity. I have found that you need more propellant to get same velocity via raising the pressures. Then because of the lower pressure you can raise the load to achieve higher velocity than uncoated.
You can at a point move to an faster propellant and step a level up in velocity. This has all been learn back in the Moly and other coating start out days.

Not sure of the whys and wherefores but my results are as follows. I use roughly 10% less powder for a given plated bullet weight when loading cast PC and a hair less, but a noticeable one, than I used with the identical bullets in raw lead lubed form.

I have done a lot of fire forming of bullets, and the most important part is not fireforming.
Annealing is far more important than the fireforming how to. Learn to destress your brass and do so before every step of your fireforming, even new brass is better annealed before fire forming.
That done, then shooting it.
I have a 210 liter oil drum plastic rubbish bin in my garage which use when absolutely full as a fireforming silencer. The full of garage and household rubbish drum has a hole barrel size  two thirds down the side and a thick old blanked foldeda few x over the top with a weighted lid over that. When I fire form I just place barrel in drum and do the deed, its no louder than dropping a phone book flat on a tiled floor or hitting the last hit on a nail when you hit the wood as well. I phone closest neighbour, tell her I will be doing some wood work, please let me know if I bother you. She claims not to have ever heard me. My wife sleeps about 4 rooms away when I work, no hassle.
I have used Mp - MS to achieve desired results, I also have a bottle of spilt propellant, droppings and leak out autoloader and Lee pro press. These droppings are everything hand gun, rifle and shotgun propellant.
I usually use 12 - 20 gr of mix for fireforming and I have topped charge with almost everything you can imagine, cotten, kapok, toilet paper. I have use Porridge, pronutro and birdseed, sawdust and shavings to a small load of birdshot. I have stuffed a case full of cotton wool and topped that of with soap forced into neck, I have poured wax in and used 2 mm of polifiller. I have used silicon sealer and even a small amount of Bostic contact dribbled on top of paper at mouth of the neck.
They all work, every way of making a bang works, sometimes just a tweak is needed to raise the resistance- pressure.
 ....................But please, anneal thos cases.

My experience is that I require slightly less propellant to achieve book velocities for cast when powder coating. Have to assume the stuff is slidier than raw lead.
[/quote]
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Are you certain about this, the powder coating reduces friction substantially, the reduced friction = less pressure, the less pressure = reduced velocity. I have found that you need more propellant to get same velocity via raising the pressures. Then because of the lower pressure you can raise the load to achieve higher velocity than uncoated.
You can at a point move to an faster propellant and step a level up in velocity. This has all been learn back in the Moly and other coating start out days.