Geroeste loop - hoe nou?

Sit slim kind 🤣 🤣 🤣 🤣 🤣 

Volgens wat ek weet - as jy met 'n geroeste loop skiet, dan kry jy rooikop kinders... 🤣 🤣 🤣 

Not sure about that. The acid used on rusty surfaces is phosphoric acid. It converts iron oxide to iron phosphate which is inert. Navy and merchant navy uses it by the drum. Colloquially known as "Meggie" by Cape crew. Iron phosphate is white, which works wonders for rust marks on white surfaces. Cheap as chips, so no idea why anyone in the navy would mix other stuff that is more expensive.

We used a similar substance in the navy. Citric acid main additive (we would steal some and mix with castor sugar stolen from mess and Eno's from Medics and make a adult sherbet), plus what I was told was Caustic Soda and soap.
This was made by the barrel and applied with a mop to rusted areas that were going to be repainted, re-greased. It was a flood on, HP hosed off some time later approach. 
I wonder if it was same formula or another approach to same result.

Far right was in solution, to left middle got wet, far left did not touch solution.
[url=

] by [url=https://www.flickr.com/photos/204555085@N07/]frank allen[/url], on Flickr

Starting on a rusty 7x57 barrel tonight, will see how it goes. I have cleaned the barrel mechanically previously, will see what this potion delivers.

Frank Green (Bartlein barrels) have shown a few pictures of what happens when using abrasive paste with a brush.

The first pass scores tracks as any imperfections of the bore allows. Then for the rest of the barrels short life, the bristles keep following that same path, wearing the score marks deeper until they become gouges, then trenches.

He also showed a few cases of using abrasives with a patch on a regular basis to remove "hard carbon" or just "polish the barrel". Apparently this causes rounded off lands and enlarges the bore. The more aggressive the abrasive, the faster the damage.

The guy that does Backyard Ballistics on yoochoob has a backround in chemistry and developed a diy evaporust alternative. I made a batch that I used to de-rust some 1950's VW bus parts from my stash that I turned into gun money. It worked incredibly well and is what I would use in a barrel a coupe of hours at a time if a bronze brush ran out of talent.

The Backyard Ballistics rust remover is an affordable, effective DIY chelating solution popular for cleaning rusted metal. It acts as a chelator, removing rust without eating away the underlying metal. The formula, often shared through the "Beyond Ballistics" YouTube channel, is a mixture of water, citric acid, sodium carbonate (or baking soda), and a small amount of dish soap.

Key Components & Recipe (for 1 Liter)
1 Liter Water: Distilled is best to prevent impurities.
100g Citric Acid: Available in powder form online or at many stores.
40g Sodium Carbonate (or 63g Baking Soda): This helps neutralize the acid to a pH of about 4, preventing damage to the underlying metal.
Dish Soap: A small squirt added as a surfactant.

Usage Instructions
Dissolve: Mix the 100g of citric acid into the water until fully dissolved.
Neutralize: Add the 40g of sodium carbonate (washing soda) slowly. The solution will bubble, releasing carbon dioxide.
Surfactant: Add a small amount of dish soap.
Soak: Submerge the rusty item in the solution. For heavy rust, let it soak for a day or longer.
Clean: Remove, scrub if necessary, and rinse thoroughly.
Why It Works
The solution works by chelating iron, creating a solution that targets iron oxide (rust) but leaves the base metal intact, unlike strong acid cleaners. It is reported to be as effective as commercial products like Evapo-Rust for a fraction of the cost

Yes 1000 steel wool is brilliant for stocks. Stock oil and s/wool rubbing gives a deep lustre.

BUT ! - the kinda rust I am referring to is not afraid of 1000 steel wool. I think we all talking different degrees here. My method is for built up rust, flake, scarring rust, not surface powder coat rust.

We are. If I had to take that sort of rust out of a barrel I would have gone through chemical, electrolysis and bronze brush efforts a moer of a lot before I got to steel wool if I ever did and would give up long before I got to something daft like valve grinding paste. Having done a bit of valve grinding in my time I have an appreciation of what it does to hardened valve seats under hand pressure and it has absolutely no place inside a barrel.

:o :o :o Nee Fok !!!!! nou weet ek nie. A new barrel and a shot out barrel has a difference of a FEW THOUSANDS of an inch - like lots less than .1 mm and you suggesting grinding paste - steel wool.
Likely the worst possible two things in order mentioned to ever put in a rifled barrel.

Do you have any idea how deep the rust has penetrated ?
Once it gets going it NEVER stops
From my reading it appears the barrel has been rusting away for a LONG time
In other words it is ALREADY FUBAR
Steel wool and valve grinding paste are hardly going to make an ALREADY FUBAR barrel much worse
It might even make it a little bit better ...
How much ( and how long ) do you have to grind away to remove the rifling ?

I speak from experience -- getting an old Boer war Lee-Metford that was also neglected for a long time shooting again.

Of course IF the rest of the rifle is in OK condition and is valuable and has sentimental value then ...replace the barrel !

Yes 1000 steel wool is brilliant for stocks. Stock oil and s/wool rubbing gives a deep lustre.

BUT ! - the kinda rust I am referring to is not afraid of 1000 steel wool. I think we all talking different degrees here. My method is for built up rust, flake, scarring rust, not surface powder coat rust.

I use steelwool on the outside of barrels and bronze brushes inside the barrel.

Fine steel wool and paraffin does not abrade nearly as well as you might think on smooth surfaces. Just use plenty of paraffin. It does help to lift rust from smooth surfaces.

As well as penetrating underneath rust to help lift it, paraffin also acts as a lubricant to avoid scraping the steel. I find it the most reliable way to remove rust from blued surfaces without damaging the surrounds. Just don't go full-retard and use it like sand paper on an old door. Once the surface rust is off, nothing can get rid of the pitting and rough marks.

The problem with a brass scourer is that it is not fine enough for realy fine rust. Probably because fine strands of brass is too soft to do anything usefull.

Agree on where steel wool is appropriate for use. I use 0000 steel wool for stock finishing and have used it on really manky steel gun parts. What that's taught me is that it is abrasive enough for me not to want it anywhere near a chamber much less the inside of a barrel.

I use steelwool on the outside of barrels and bronze brushes inside the barrel.

Fine steel wool and paraffin does not abrade nearly as well as you might think on smooth surfaces. Just use plenty of paraffin. It does help to lift rust from smooth surfaces.

As well as penetrating underneath rust to help lift it, paraffin also acts as a lubricant to avoid scraping the steel. I find it the most reliable way to remove rust from blued surfaces without damaging the surrounds. Just don't go full-retard and use it like sand paper on an old door. Once the surface rust is off, nothing can get rid of the pitting and rough marks.

The problem with a brass scourer is that it is not fine enough for realy fine rust. Probably because fine strands of brass is too soft to do anything usefull.

That is probably the worst ever advice for removing rust from a barrel.

Never ever use an abrasive with a brush in a barrel.

Use paraffin with a bronze brush. Or paraffin with steel wool. DO NOT USE ABRASIVES WITH A BRUSH!!!

If it is bad enough to use abrasives, use on a tight fitting cloth patch.

I agree with you on the quality of the advice but disagree on your recommendation for using steel wool. A brass scourer is OK being significantly softer than the barrel but I wouldn't use steel. I'd need to have done a lot of brushing before I got to an abrasive of any sort.

Very sad when lovely weapons are neglected and abused

Take a one size smaller nylon brush wrap steel wool around it so it fits tight in the barrel
Put on some automotive valve grinding paste

Run / scrub hard up and down a couple of times
Flush with boiling water
Do the same a couple of times

After last flushing use a phosphor bronze brush with Eosso for a few repetitions
Clean with a 2x4 patch soaked in alcohol until it comes out clean.
Run a sightly wet gun oil patch until that is also clean
Do a visual inspection
Go and shoot
That is what would do

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:o :o :o Nee Fok !!!!! nou weet ek nie. A new barrel and a shot out barrel has a difference of a FEW THOUSANDS of an inch - like lots less than .1 mm and you suggesting grinding paste - steel wool.
Likely the worst possible two things in order mentioned to ever put in a rifled barrel.

That is probably the worst ever advice for removing rust from a barrel.

Never ever use an abrasive with a brush in a barrel.

Use paraffin with a bronze brush. Or paraffin with steel wool. DO NOT USE ABRASIVES WITH A BRUSH!!!

If it is bad enough to use abrasives, use on a tight fitting cloth patch.

Very sad when lovely weapons are neglected and abused

Take a one size smaller nylon brush wrap steel wool around it so it fits tight in the barrel
Put on some automotive valve grinding paste

Run / scrub hard up and down a couple of times
Flush with boiling water
Do the same a couple of times

After last flushing use a phosphor bronze brush with Eosso for a few repetitions
Clean with a 2x4 patch soaked in alcohol until it comes out clean.
Run a sightly wet gun oil patch until that is also clean

Do a visual inspection
Go and shoot

That is what would do

https://forum.assra.com/cgi-bin/yabb/YaBB.pl?num=1426309205

Use at your own risk inside the firearm.

As per AI

The mixture of hydrogen peroxide (H₂O₂) and vinegar (acetic acid) forms peracetic acid (CH₃COOOH), a strong oxidizer and corrosive agent that effectively dissolves or removes lead by converting it into soluble lead acetate.5972e2
How It Works
Chemical Reaction: Vinegar provides acetic acid, and hydrogen peroxide acts as an oxidizer. They react to produce peracetic acid (often called "peracetic" or "parasitic" acid in discussions). This mixture oxidizes lead (Pb) and forms lead(II) acetate, a soluble compound.fd550f
Effect on Lead: It rapidly dissolves lead deposits, such as lead fouling in firearm barrels, chambers, or suppressors. Users report visible removal of lead smears or buildup within minutes using a 50/50 mix of household 3% hydrogen peroxide and 5% white vinegar. The solution can turn cloudy or colored as lead dissolves and may produce some sludge or residue.3f1e55
This is popularly known as "The Dip" in firearm communities for cleaning lead from metal parts like stainless steel baffles or bores.119b96
Practical Uses and Effectiveness
Firearm Cleaning: Commonly used for lead removal from .22LR barrels or suppressors where traditional brushing is insufficient. It works quickly (often 2–15 minutes) and can reach into grooves or pores.81ab07
Limitations: It may also attack or etch the underlying metal (e.g., causing rust/oxidation on iron/steel barrels, shown by red coloration in the solution) and can damage bluing, finishes, or other metals. It's less ideal for prolonged use on ferrous metals.f10d68
Safety and Hazards
Toxicity: The resulting lead acetate is highly toxic and can be absorbed through skin contact, leading to lead poisoning risks. Always wear gloves, work in a well-ventilated area, and dispose of the solution properly as hazardous waste.824c99
Corrosive/Irritant: Peracetic acid irritates skin, eyes, and respiratory system; it releases fumes and can corrode surfaces, metals, and tissues.73ee99
Do not mix and store large quantities or use in confined spaces due to vapor buildup.
This is a practical DIY method for lead removal in specific contexts (like gunsmithing), but handle it with extreme care due to the chemical and toxic hazards involved. For general cleaning or other metals, commercial alternatives are often safer.

To remove any of the fluids used, try the old boiling water trick. Used to take out all the muck of the old corrosive primers.

Vinegar / peroxide is to remove lead fouling.

It's extremely effective at creating rust so if you use it be absolutely certain that you've got it out completely when you're done. It does a fine job of dissolving bluing too so only put it where you mean to.

*******************************
:o Yes, grease the blueing and wrap in a tag, kinda gives one a second chance if u screw up.

Thanks a lot Treeman!

I haven't thought of Coke, but was preparing to use your peroxide/vinegar mix.

**********************
Lead removal, - wonder how it will affect oxidised metal ? I would definitely try it and read the wash out ? *********************** its not going to magically damage the barrel and who knows what all is holding the "rust" "mess" stuff in the barrel together.

https://azrust.com/best-acid-for-rust-removal/#:~:text=Acid%20strength%20refers%20to%20the%20tendency%20of%20a

Vinegar / peroxide is to remove lead fouling.

It's extremely effective at creating rust so if you use it be absolutely certain that you've got it out completely when you're done. It does a fine job of dissolving bluing too so only put it where you mean to.

Thanks a lot Treeman!

I haven't thought of Coke, but was preparing to use your peroxide/vinegar mix.

Vinegar / peroxide is to remove lead fouling.

A copper brush and penetrating spray will get everything out that can be gotten out.

After cleaning, shoot the rifle, it may clean up a bit more.

Barrel pitting is not fatal.

Thanks a lot Treeman!

I haven't thought of Coke, but was preparing to use your peroxide/vinegar mix.

When does rust and pitting in a rifle barrel become dangerous?

I think it needs to have eaten a fair way into the barrel before its a safety issue.

**********************
VERY far way yes. Accuracy becomes unusable years before barrel becomes unsafe.
The safety issues are when shooting a barrel with rust in it, actively rusty barrel, one not determinedly cleaned by someone trying to save weapon. Safety factor relevance is also related to bore size.
A rust damaged .204 is more of an issue than a rust damaged 577/450 Martini.
Rust in the barrel not cleaned out is the same as obstruction in the barrel, secondly rust in the barrel can come loose during a shot causing a "something" the bullet must try get past.
A rusty barrel that has been 100 % cleaned is just a pitted barrel, something that may or may not affect accuracy, something that may foul quickly, or may not. A barrel that may VERY likely shoot better 2 - 3 shots after cleaning, a dirty barrel gun that you may learn to know.
I have had a few pitted barrels in my time and only one shot too bad to hunt with.

TAKE BOLT OUT - LOCK IT AWAY
All the below is my approach - my experience - my discovery over the years.

Clean it moertoe well, brass, brass, brass brush - use Parker Hale brush's not that Ram crap.
(Trust me now !!!!), Pour coke into the barrel 10 -20 x. Brush with brass, clean dry cloth, coke 20 mins ?, clean out dry, brass brush, coke, repeat. Be sure to dry rag the bore before the coke so that the coke works on the rust stuck to bore and not the dust lying loose in the barrel. I have done this a whole after hrs evening - brass brush - coke repeat. NB be sure to brush both directions. I have on occasion left a last coke application in the barrel overnite.
The following day I do a last clean barrel dry, run some benzene through barrel (dunno why I did that- just seems proper), brass brush again and dry cloth it.
After all of this I take my 40 year old tube of Autosol metal polish (You can add brandy to the coke now - thats why the bolt was locked away) and I do 40 - 60 strokes both direction, using a cloth that is working tight, but not tight enough to stop being able to use rod in both directions.

I have done many barrels in this manner, from scrappy buys, take a chance bargains to some real old stuff. I have had shootable results and just safe to shoot results - I have only had two rifles I thought would be good but just would not group, a few I thought were finished but I tried.

When does rust and pitting in a rifle barrel become dangerous?

I think it needs to have eaten a fair way into the barrel before its a safety issue.

Thanks, I will need to give it a try to know exactly.

When does rust and pitting in a rifle barrel become dangerous?

I think it needs to have eaten a fair way into the barrel before its a safety issue.

Goeiemore Oom, baie dankie vir die antwoord.

Dit is n Sako L46 in 222 Rem (middel 1950's gebou) wat lank gelê het en oënskynlik nog langer nie skoongemaak was nie. Ek het op die end afgewissel tussen Handy Andy en ATF om die loop deeglik skoon te kry. Daar het letterlik n hele laag aanpaksel onder in die skropbak gelê en die lappies was toegepak met n dik, swart smeersel wanneer ek hulle deurgestoot het - byna soos ou ghries of skoenpolitoer.

Toe ons twee dae later met die borescope gekyk het, was die loop oor die algemeen redelik blink maar hy het definitiewe roeskolle gewys. Die enigste iets wat sin maak is dat die roes oor jare heen onder die aanpaksels "gegroei" het, en nou eers oopgemaak is.

Ek het n paar los fabriekspatrone, en van my eie herlaaides. Dit raak dan tyd om te gaan speel ;) ;)

Ek neem aan jy het dit nou mooi skoon gemaak? Die roesmerke sal sekerlik meer wrywing veroorsaak en dit sal jy met herlaai maklik sien in hoër druk wat jy met ladingaanpassing kan reguleer. Die vraag is of fabrieksammunisie dalk probleme kan gee. Die enigste manier is om dit te skiet en na druktekens te kyk.

Kan die loop poleer word sonder om die boor van die geweer te verander?