Ek neem aan jy het dit nou mooi skoon gemaak? Die roesmerke sal sekerlik meer wrywing veroorsaak en dit sal jy met herlaai maklik sien in hoër druk wat jy met ladingaanpassing kan reguleer. Die vraag is of fabrieksammunisie dalk probleme kan gee. Die enigste manier is om dit te skiet en na druktekens te kyk.

Kan die loop poleer word sonder om die boor van die geweer te verander?

Goeiemore Oom, baie dankie vir die antwoord.

Dit is n Sako L46 in 222 Rem (middel 1950's gebou) wat lank gelê het en oënskynlik nog langer nie skoongemaak was nie. Ek het op die end afgewissel tussen Handy Andy en ATF om die loop deeglik skoon te kry. Daar het letterlik n hele laag aanpaksel onder in die skropbak gelê en die lappies was toegepak met n dik, swart smeersel wanneer ek hulle deurgestoot het - byna soos ou ghries of skoenpolitoer.

Toe ons twee dae later met die borescope gekyk het, was die loop oor die algemeen redelik blink maar hy het definitiewe roeskolle gewys. Die enigste iets wat sin maak is dat die roes oor jare heen onder die aanpaksels "gegroei" het, en nou eers oopgemaak is.

Ek het n paar los fabriekspatrone, en van my eie herlaaides. Dit raak dan tyd om te gaan speel  😉  😉

When does rust and pitting in a rifle barrel become dangerous?

I think it needs to have eaten a fair way into the barrel before its a safety issue.

When does rust and pitting in a rifle barrel become dangerous?

I think it needs to have eaten a fair way into the barrel before its a safety issue.

Thanks, I will need to give it a try to know exactly. 

When does rust and pitting in a rifle barrel become dangerous?

I think it needs to have eaten a fair way into the barrel before its a safety issue.

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VERY far way yes. Accuracy becomes  unusable years before barrel becomes unsafe.
The safety issues are when shooting a barrel with rust in it, actively rusty barrel, one not determinedly cleaned by someone trying to save weapon. Safety factor relevance is also related to bore size.
A rust damaged .204 is more of an issue than a rust damaged 577/450 Martini.
Rust in the barrel not cleaned out is the same as obstruction in the barrel, secondly rust in the barrel can come loose during a shot causing a "something" the bullet must try get past.
A rusty barrel that has been 100 % cleaned is just a pitted barrel, something that may or may not affect accuracy, something that may foul quickly, or may not. A barrel that may VERY likely shoot better 2 - 3 shots after cleaning, a dirty barrel gun that you may learn to know.
I have had a few pitted barrels in my time and only one shot too bad to hunt with.

TAKE BOLT OUT - LOCK IT AWAY
All the below is my approach - my experience - my discovery over the years.

Clean it moertoe well, brass, brass, brass brush - use Parker Hale brush's not that Ram crap.
(Trust me now !!!!), Pour coke into the barrel 10 -20 x. Brush with brass, clean dry cloth, coke 20 mins ?, clean out dry, brass brush, coke, repeat. Be sure to dry rag the bore before the coke so that the coke works on the rust stuck to bore and not the dust lying loose in the barrel. I have done this a whole after hrs evening - brass brush - coke repeat. NB be sure to brush both directions. I have on occasion left a last coke application in the barrel overnite.
The following day I do a last clean barrel dry, run some benzene through barrel (dunno why I did that- just seems proper), brass brush again and dry cloth it.
After all of this I take my 40 year old tube of Autosol metal polish (You can add brandy to the coke now - thats why the bolt was locked away) and I do 40 - 60 strokes both direction, using a cloth that is working tight, but not tight enough to stop being able to use rod in both directions.

I have done many barrels in this manner, from scrappy buys, take a chance bargains to some real old stuff. I have had shootable results and just safe to shoot results - I have only had two rifles I thought would be good but just would not group, a few I thought were finished but I tried.

Thanks a lot Treeman!

I haven't thought of Coke, but was preparing to use your peroxide/vinegar mix.

Thanks a lot Treeman!

I haven't thought of Coke, but was preparing to use your peroxide/vinegar mix.

Vinegar / peroxide is to remove lead fouling.

A copper brush and penetrating spray will get everything out that can be gotten out.

After cleaning, shoot the rifle, it may clean up a bit more.

Barrel pitting is not fatal.

Vinegar / peroxide is to remove lead fouling.

It's extremely effective at creating rust so if you use it be absolutely certain that you've got it out completely when you're done. It does a fine job of dissolving bluing too so only put it where you mean to.

https://azrust.com/best-acid-for-rust-removal/#:~:text=Acid%20strength%20refers%20to%20the%20tendency%20of%20a

Thanks a lot Treeman!

I haven't thought of Coke, but was preparing to use your peroxide/vinegar mix.

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Lead removal, - wonder how it will affect oxidised metal ? I would definitely try it and read the wash out ? ******************** its not going to magically damage the barrel and who knows what all is holding the "rust" "mess" stuff in the barrel together.

Vinegar / peroxide is to remove lead fouling.

It's extremely effective at creating rust so if you use it be absolutely certain that you've got it out completely when you're done. It does a fine job of dissolving bluing too so only put it where you mean to.

*******************************
😮 Yes, grease the blueing and wrap in a tag, kinda gives one a second chance if u screw up.

To remove any of the fluids used, try the old boiling water trick. Used to take out all the muck of the old corrosive primers.

https://forum.assra.com/cgi-bin/yabb/YaBB.pl?num=1426309205

Use at your own risk inside the firearm.

As per AI

The mixture of hydrogen peroxide (H₂O₂) and vinegar (acetic acid) forms peracetic acid (CH₃COOOH), a strong oxidizer and corrosive agent that effectively dissolves or removes lead by converting it into soluble lead acetate.5972e2
How It Works
Chemical Reaction: Vinegar provides acetic acid, and hydrogen peroxide acts as an oxidizer. They react to produce peracetic acid (often called "peracetic" or "parasitic" acid in discussions). This mixture oxidizes lead (Pb) and forms lead(II) acetate, a soluble compound.fd550f
Effect on Lead: It rapidly dissolves lead deposits, such as lead fouling in firearm barrels, chambers, or suppressors. Users report visible removal of lead smears or buildup within minutes using a 50/50 mix of household 3% hydrogen peroxide and 5% white vinegar. The solution can turn cloudy or colored as lead dissolves and may produce some sludge or residue.3f1e55
This is popularly known as "The Dip" in firearm communities for cleaning lead from metal parts like stainless steel baffles or bores.119b96
Practical Uses and Effectiveness
Firearm Cleaning: Commonly used for lead removal from .22LR barrels or suppressors where traditional brushing is insufficient. It works quickly (often 2–15 minutes) and can reach into grooves or pores.81ab07
Limitations: It may also attack or etch the underlying metal (e.g., causing rust/oxidation on iron/steel barrels, shown by red coloration in the solution) and can damage bluing, finishes, or other metals. It's less ideal for prolonged use on ferrous metals.f10d68
Safety and Hazards
Toxicity: The resulting lead acetate is highly toxic and can be absorbed through skin contact, leading to lead poisoning risks. Always wear gloves, work in a well-ventilated area, and dispose of the solution properly as hazardous waste.824c99
Corrosive/Irritant: Peracetic acid irritates skin, eyes, and respiratory system; it releases fumes and can corrode surfaces, metals, and tissues.73ee99
Do not mix and store large quantities or use in confined spaces due to vapor buildup.
This is a practical DIY method for lead removal in specific contexts (like gunsmithing), but handle it with extreme care due to the chemical and toxic hazards involved. For general cleaning or other metals, commercial alternatives are often safer.

Very sad when lovely weapons are neglected and abused

Take a one size smaller nylon brush wrap steel wool around it so it fits tight in the barrel
Put on some automotive valve grinding paste

Run / scrub hard up and down a couple of times
Flush with boiling water
Do the same a couple of times

After last flushing use a phosphor bronze brush with Eosso for a few repetitions
Clean with a 2x4 patch soaked in alcohol until it comes out clean.
Run a sightly wet gun oil patch until that is also clean

Do a visual inspection
Go and shoot

That is what would do