You can also change the trigger to a single stage by installing a small tube or bush around the roll pin that stops the actuator.  The thickness of this bush needs to be just right to take up all the "take up" movement.  Some people also drill out the hole and install a thicker roll pin.  This is not reversible if you over-do it, so be very careful.

Thanks, this is interesting. Do you know the exact diameter of the bushing/thicker pin that you need? and can you point out on the diagram exactly where it goes?

No, I have kept them all 2-stage, so I have not actually measured it.

From what I hear, and that is always dangerous territory, somewhere around 3,5mm should be about right.  The thing is, this may differ a little from 1 rifle to the next, so fine-tuning may be needed.

Do you perhaps have the drawing for a Tikka trigger?

Is this what you are looking for?

Do you have a drawing for the Tikke 2-stage trigger?

Just a follow up. I realized I never posted what I finally did to resolve the trigger "Improvement".

1) Removed circlip 3 and 6. This disassembles the trigger, springs and actuator.

2) Removed pin 2, and slid a spacer over, and replaced the pin 2. The spacer is 3.4mm in diameter, 1.55 internal diameter and 9.5mm long.

3) Replace spring 8 ( 2nd stage stiff spring) with spring 5 (soft 1st stage spring).

4) Reassemble as before.

This will remove the first stage and make the 2nd stage lighter.

Grub screw #1 can be used to adjust pull weight. (NB do not make it too light or you may get misfires). Fix the screw back in place if you move it, because it is dangerous if it works loose.